As we become increasingly aware of our collective carbon footprint and its environmental impact, it makes more sense than ever to consider growing some of our own vegetables. In addition to superior quality and flavour, gardeners have the opportunity to grow heirloom or hard-to-find varieties-without having to pay premium prices for specialty produce.
Here are five factors to keep in mind to get your vegetable patch off to a great start:
Exposure For high-quality crops, all vegetable gardens require at least eight hours of direct sunlight daily. Ensure your garden's southern exposure isn't blocked by mature trees or structures, such as buildings, that will cast shade on your plot.
Size It's always tempting to start off big, but vegetable gardens take a good deal of tending, so it's prudent to begin small and expand gradually as you gain more experience. Bear in mind some vegetables-such as squash, melons, pumpkins and corn-require a great deal of real estate to spread out, so be aware of your plot's spatial limitations.
Site The ground should be fairly level, although a garden that slopes gently to the south will produce earlier crops (colder air will flow down the slope, pulling warmer air in behind it).
If the area is covered with turfgrass, use a sharp spade to cut the sod into strips, then undercut the strips below the level of the grass roots; peel away the sod (it can be used to repair bare areas in the lawn or stacked upside down and composted).
Remove any tree roots or rocks, then aerate and amend the soil with plenty of organic matter (e.g., compost, shredded leaves or composted manure) to a depth of 30 to 45 centimetres. This can be done with a rototiller, or manually by double-digging (i.e., twice the depth of the spade or fork) to turn over the existing soil, break up clods and add organic matter.
Pathways Throughout the growing season, you will need access to each plant (for seeding, thinning, weeding, watering, managing pests and harvesting), and paths help keep everything within easy reach.
Traditionally, a path leads up the centre of the plot, with the vegetable rows arranged at right angles to it. Conventional wisdom has it that rows should run on a north-south axis so plants receive equal amounts of sunlight from both sides, but if this is impractical, don't hesitate to run them in a more suitable direction. Remember to place tall crops (e.g., corn, peas, pole beans and tomatoes) at the north end of the patch so they don't shade low-growing plants.
Unwelcome visitors Regardless of where you live, there's likely to be some local wildlife that's every bit as enthusiastic about your plot's bounty as you are. Depending on the kinds of marauders in your neighbourhood, you may need to install a physical barrier, such as fencing or netting.
Cool-season crops
These vegetables tolerate low temperatures and can be sown outdoors in early spring. (Those marked with an asterisk can also be planted in summer for fall harvest.)
| Beets | Broccoli* | Brussels sprouts | Cabbage* | Kale* | Kohlrabi* | Leeks |
| Lettuce | Onions | Peas* | Radishes* | Rutabaga | Spinach* | Turnips* |
Read more in Gardens and Fruit & Vegetable Gardening
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2 Comments
I planted onions last year and had a fairly good yield, but the problem I ran into was when to actually pick them? I waited too long and some of them were eaten by maggots. Any suggestions on how to better monitor this so that you pick them at the right time while receiving the best yield? Please advise. Thanks-Chris
I don't think that the maggots were from you leaving the onions in the soil too long. They just sort of appear depending on the weather. You can prevent them from getting into your onions by sprinking a granule in the soil when you plant them.( ask at any garden supplier) If you don't feel comfortable with that try an old method that the older gardeners around here brought with them when they immigrated to Canada...used coffee grounds! I have used them and it does work but not as good as the granules.You also have to keep applying them through the season and hoeing it in a bit. I find that there are more maggots around if it a wet season or if you water too much. The onions are ready to harvest when the tops dry off and lay on the ground. Lay them in the sun in a dry place outdoors to season them so they will keep. I usually don't remove the tops until they are all shrivelled and break off easily.By storing them in a dry cool place (not a fridge)I can keep them until Christmas ...or longer depending on the size of the crop.